I came to Sucre to rest and do Spanish lessons for a few days, and that I have done. The city itself is very different to La Paz with white washed buildings, the odd garden square and very few unfinished buildings.
And some friendly dogs.
While there aren’t loads of things to do here there are nice, bargain price restaurants (some vegetarian!), nice hostels and plenty of Spanish schools. I’ve been staying at the beautiful Kulturberlin which is set in a massive old building with a garden and the best breakfast I’ve had in South America included in the price. The rooms are mostly set around the bar in the courtyard so it can get a bit noisy, and as seems usual for big hostels in South America the wifi is awful but I was more than prepared to put up with it for the comfortable surroundings and friendly people. I had a couple of good night’s out including one crazy one where lots of Bolivian girls descended on the hostel and a few of the guys staying here stripped for free beer!
At night I mostly hung out with my roommate who was a fellow accountant from the uk and his friends. In the day I met some lovely German girls and mostly went to dinner with them at Condor, a Vegetarian cafe nearby.
I did my Spanish lessons at Sucre Spanish school which is only a couple of streets from the hostel. I spent 11 hours with the lovely Veronica who was a joy to hang out with and turned out to have the same music and good taste as me! The school itself was well maintained with free tea, water and a selection of activities for the students. It was also super cheap. I think I paid about £4.50/hour for private lessons. In London I paid £15 for group sessions!
I had some awesome set menus for lunch here too. One from Freya on Calle Loa for the bargain price of £1.50.
Course 1: salad buffet
Course 2: unpictured soup
Course 3: avocado pancake
Course 4: unpictured dessert that tasted like very runny polenta mixed with fruit juice and sugar. I didn’t eat this but for £1.50 who cares! There was a drink included too!!!
I also made a lot of trips to Condor on Calle Calvo and mostly at these giant deep fried empanadas or potato balls which only cost £1 and were amazing.
They also do a decent set menu for 30 bolivianos (£3).
Last night I went to the cinema with one of the German girls to see Jupiter Ascending. Its unbelievably cheap to go here at only 35 bolivianos (£3.50) for a 3D ticket! It was dubbed in Spanish but at that price and as the boyfriend said “it stars Channing Tatum, how hard to understand can it be?” it was a no brainer. I won’t lie, we had definite issues understanding! I got the general shape of the plot but completely missed out on the subtleties. However, its so colourful and beautifully shot that I got completely lost in that instead so it was still completely with it. I’m liking forward to getting hold of the English version on dvd when I get home!
Today is my last day here and this morning I work up feeling kind of rubbish. After breakfast I got a huge craving for chicken so got a mid-morning quesadilla and sat in a cafe for about 3 hours. When they ran out of tables I managed to rouse myself and drag myself on a very steep uphill walk to the lookout in the Recoleta part of town. It was worth it. The lookout itself is beautiful and the view stunning.
On the way back I had a bit of a moment. I got so hot I had to drag myself back to the hostel and lie in the shade in a hammock for a while. It was damp from this mornings rain which help cool me down! I’m not feeling entirely myself still. A little sick and b headachy. Thankfully I have a flat bed for my bus tonight and there should be a bathroom. My main annoyance is that I wanted one last set menu from Condor and I’m not sure I feel well enough. Fingers crossed!
Its my last day today